@font-face{font-family:Fraunces Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:100 900;src:url(/_astro/fraunces-vietnamese-wght-normal.CnvboYUG.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+102-103,U+110-111,U+128-129,U+168-169,U+1A0-1A1,U+1AF-1B0,U+300-301,U+303-304,U+308-309,U+323,U+329,U+1EA0-1EF9,U+20AB}@font-face{font-family:Fraunces Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:100 900;src:url(/_astro/fraunces-latin-ext-wght-normal.Ca2vKHc0.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+100-2BA,U+2BD-2C5,U+2C7-2CC,U+2CE-2D7,U+2DD-2FF,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+1D00-1DBF,U+1E00-1E9F,U+1EF2-1EFF,U+2020,U+20A0-20AB,U+20AD-20C0,U+2113,U+2C60-2C7F,U+A720-A7FF}@font-face{font-family:Fraunces Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:100 900;src:url(/_astro/fraunces-latin-wght-normal.ukD16Tqj.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+??,U+131,U+152-153,U+2BB-2BC,U+2C6,U+2DA,U+2DC,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+2000-206F,U+20AC,U+2122,U+2191,U+2193,U+2212,U+2215,U+FEFF,U+FFFD}@font-face{font-family:Fraunces Variable;font-style:italic;font-display:swap;font-weight:100 900;src:url(/_astro/fraunces-vietnamese-wght-italic.BicUS2cM.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+102-103,U+110-111,U+128-129,U+168-169,U+1A0-1A1,U+1AF-1B0,U+300-301,U+303-304,U+308-309,U+323,U+329,U+1EA0-1EF9,U+20AB}@font-face{font-family:Fraunces Variable;font-style:italic;font-display:swap;font-weight:100 900;src:url(/_astro/fraunces-latin-ext-wght-italic.BfTTTDIL.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+100-2BA,U+2BD-2C5,U+2C7-2CC,U+2CE-2D7,U+2DD-2FF,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+1D00-1DBF,U+1E00-1E9F,U+1EF2-1EFF,U+2020,U+20A0-20AB,U+20AD-20C0,U+2113,U+2C60-2C7F,U+A720-A7FF}@font-face{font-family:Fraunces Variable;font-style:italic;font-display:swap;font-weight:100 900;src:url(/_astro/fraunces-latin-wght-italic.Py8at3oI.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+??,U+131,U+152-153,U+2BB-2BC,U+2C6,U+2DA,U+2DC,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+2000-206F,U+20AC,U+2122,U+2191,U+2193,U+2212,U+2215,U+FEFF,U+FFFD}@font-face{font-family:Instrument Sans Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400 700;src:url(/_astro/instrument-sans-latin-ext-wght-normal.B5bTHO_g.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+100-2BA,U+2BD-2C5,U+2C7-2CC,U+2CE-2D7,U+2DD-2FF,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+1D00-1DBF,U+1E00-1E9F,U+1EF2-1EFF,U+2020,U+20A0-20AB,U+20AD-20C0,U+2113,U+2C60-2C7F,U+A720-A7FF}@font-face{font-family:Instrument Sans Variable;font-style:normal;font-display:swap;font-weight:400 700;src:url(/_astro/instrument-sans-latin-wght-normal.BbzFLZTg.woff2)format("woff2-variations");unicode-range:U+??,U+131,U+152-153,U+2BB-2BC,U+2C6,U+2DA,U+2DC,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+2000-206F,U+20AC,U+2122,U+2191,U+2193,U+2212,U+2215,U+FEFF,U+FFFD}:root{--paper:#f2ebdf;--paper-2:#e9e0d0;--card:#fbf7f0;--ink:#1b1714;--ink-2:#4a423b;--muted:#7d7166;--night:#15120f;--night-2:#221d18;--signal:#e2552b;--signal-2:#f08a4b;--sea:#2f6f73;--line:#1b171424;--serif:"Fraunces Variable", "Iowan Old Style", Georgia, serif;--sans:"Instrument Sans Variable", system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;--wrap:min(1240px, calc(100vw - 2.5rem));--read:min(720px, calc(100vw - 2.5rem));--radius:4px}*,:before,:after{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth}body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);margin:0;font-size:17px;line-height:1.6;overflow-x:hidden}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}a{color:inherit}button{font:inherit}::selection{background:var(--signal);color:#fff}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--signal);outline-offset:3px}.wrap{width:var(--wrap);margin-inline:auto}.read{width:var(--read);margin-inline:auto}.visually-hidden{clip:rect(0 0 0 0);white-space:nowrap;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;position:absolute!important}.kicker{font-family:var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--signal);margin:0 0 .9rem;font-size:.74rem;font-weight:650}.display{font-family:var(--serif);font-variation-settings:"SOFT" 50, "WONK" 1;letter-spacing:-.025em;text-wrap:balance;margin:0;font-weight:600;line-height:.95}.h2{font-family:var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.02em;text-wrap:balance;margin:0 0 1rem;font-size:clamp(2rem,4.6vw,3.6rem);font-weight:560;line-height:1}.lede{color:var(--ink-2);max-width:46ch;margin:0;font-size:clamp(1.05rem,1.6vw,1.25rem)}.mono{font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}.site-header{z-index:40;background:color-mix(in srgb, var(--paper) 88%, transparent);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:sticky;top:0}.site-header.on-dark{background:color-mix(in srgb, var(--night) 70%, transparent);color:#f6efe3;border-color:#ffffff1f}.site-header .bar{justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:1rem;height:62px;display:flex}.brand{font-family:var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.01em;white-space:nowrap;align-items:center;gap:.6rem;font-size:1.12rem;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;display:flex}.brand svg{flex:none;width:34px;height:34px}.nav{gap:.2rem;display:flex}.nav a{border-radius:999px;padding:.45rem .75rem;font-size:.92rem;font-weight:550;text-decoration:none}.nav a:hover,.nav a[aria-current=page]{background:#7f6e5f29}.menu-btn{color:inherit;background:0 0;border:1px solid;border-radius:999px;padding:.35rem .8rem;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:600;display:none}@media (width<=760px){.menu-btn{display:inline-flex}.nav{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);flex-direction:column;padding:.6rem 1.25rem 1.2rem;display:none;position:absolute;top:62px;left:0;right:0}.nav.open{display:flex}.nav a{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:0;padding:.7rem .2rem;font-size:1.1rem}.brand span.long{display:none}}.site-footer{background:var(--night);color:#cfc4b5;margin-top:0;padding:4rem 0 3rem}.site-footer .cols{grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr 1fr;gap:2.5rem;display:grid}.site-footer h2{font-family:var(--serif);color:#f6efe3;margin:0 0 .6rem;font-size:1.6rem;font-weight:560}.site-footer h3{letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--signal-2);margin:0 0 .8rem;font-size:.74rem}.site-footer ul{gap:.35rem;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.site-footer a{text-decoration:none}.site-footer a:hover{color:#fff;text-decoration:underline}.site-footer .small{color:#9a8f82;border-top:1px solid #ffffff1a;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:.5rem 1.5rem;margin-top:3rem;padding-top:1.4rem;font-size:.85rem;display:flex}@media (width<=760px){.site-footer .cols{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.btn{background:var(--signal);color:#fff;cursor:pointer;border:0;border-radius:999px;align-items:center;gap:.55rem;min-height:46px;padding:.6rem 1.2rem;font-size:.95rem;font-weight:650;text-decoration:none;transition:transform .15s,background .15s;display:inline-flex}.btn:hover{background:#c94420;transform:translateY(-1px)}.btn.ghost{color:inherit;background:0 0;border:1.5px solid}.btn.ghost:hover{background:#7f6e5f26}.hero{background:var(--night);color:#f6efe3;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.hero-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);grid-auto-rows:clamp(56px,6.4vw,92px);gap:6px;padding:6px;display:grid}.hero-grid figure{background:#2a231d;margin:0;overflow:hidden}.hero-grid img{object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.92)contrast(1.02);width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform 1.2s}.hero-grid figure:hover img{transform:scale(1.04)}.hero-grid .g0{grid-area:1/1/4/6}.hero-grid .g1{grid-area:1/6/3/9}.hero-grid .g2{grid-area:1/9/3/13}.hero-grid .g3{grid-area:3/6/5/8}.hero-grid .g4{grid-area:3/8/6/13}.hero-grid .g5{grid-area:4/1/6/3}.hero-grid .g6{grid-area:4/3/6/6}.hero-grid .g7{grid-area:5/6/6/8}.hero-title{padding:clamp(1.8rem,4vw,3rem) 0 clamp(2.5rem,5vw,4rem);position:relative}.hero-title .display{font-size:clamp(3.2rem,10.5vw,9.5rem)}.hero-title .display em{color:var(--signal-2);font-style:italic;font-weight:400}.hero-title .row{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:2rem;margin-top:1.6rem;display:flex}.hero-title .lede{color:#d9cebf}.counters{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:clamp(1.2rem,3vw,2.6rem);display:flex}.counters div{display:grid}.counters b{font-family:var(--serif);color:#fff;font-size:clamp(2rem,4vw,3rem);font-weight:500;line-height:1}.counters span{letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#a99c8c;margin-top:.35rem;font-size:.78rem}@media (width<=760px){.hero-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,1fr);grid-auto-rows:44px}.hero-grid .g0{grid-area:1/1/4/5}.hero-grid .g1{grid-area:1/5/3/7}.hero-grid .g2{grid-area:3/5/5/7}.hero-grid .g3{grid-area:4/1/6/3}.hero-grid .g4{grid-area:4/3/6/5}.hero-grid .g5{grid-area:5/5/6/7}.hero-grid .g6,.hero-grid .g7{display:none}}.map-section{background:var(--night-2);color:#efe6d8;padding:clamp(3rem,7vw,6rem) 0}.map-head{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:1.5rem;margin-bottom:2rem;display:flex}.map-head .lede{color:#c7bbab}.worldmap{position:relative}.worldmap svg{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}.worldmap .land{fill:#4a4037;stroke:#2a241e;stroke-width:.5px}.worldmap .land.visited{fill:#c9a27a}.worldmap .graticule{fill:none;stroke:#ffffff0d;stroke-width:.6px}.worldmap .pin{cursor:pointer}.worldmap .pin circle.dot{fill:var(--signal);stroke:#fff;stroke-width:1.4px;transition:r .15s}.worldmap .pin circle.halo{fill:var(--signal);opacity:.22}.worldmap .pin:hover circle.dot,.worldmap .pin:focus circle.dot{r:7}.worldmap .pin text{font-family:var(--sans);fill:#f6efe3;paint-order:stroke;stroke:#221d18;stroke-width:3px;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;font-size:10.5px;font-weight:650;transition:opacity .15s}.worldmap .pin:hover text,.worldmap .pin:focus text{opacity:1}.map-legend{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem;margin-top:1.4rem;display:flex}.map-legend a{color:#e5dacb;border:1px solid #ffffff29;border-radius:999px;padding:.3rem .7rem;font-size:.82rem;text-decoration:none}.map-legend a:hover{background:var(--signal);border-color:var(--signal);color:#fff}.map-legend a b{color:var(--signal-2);margin-right:.3rem;font-weight:650}.map-legend a:hover b{color:#fff}.section{padding:clamp(3.5rem,8vw,7rem) 0}.section-head{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:1.5rem;margin-bottom:2.4rem;display:flex}.decades{gap:3.5rem;display:grid}.decade{gap:1.4rem;display:grid}.decade-label{border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:-.03em;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:baseline;gap:.4rem 1.2rem;margin:0;padding-bottom:.8rem;font-size:clamp(2rem,4vw,3rem);font-weight:450;line-height:1;display:flex}.decade-label span{color:var(--signal)}.decade-label small{font-family:var(--sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.8rem;font-weight:600}.cards{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr));grid-auto-flow:dense;gap:1.6rem 1.3rem;display:grid}.card{color:inherit;text-decoration:none;display:block;position:relative}.card .ph{aspect-ratio:4/3;background:var(--paper-2);border-radius:var(--radius);position:relative;overflow:hidden}.card .ph img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .7s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.card:hover .ph img{transform:scale(1.05)}.card .year{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;border-radius:999px;padding:.2rem .55rem;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:700;position:absolute;top:.7rem;left:.7rem}.card .ext{background:var(--signal);color:#fff;border-radius:999px;padding:.22rem .55rem;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:650;position:absolute;top:.7rem;right:.7rem}.card h3{font-family:var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.01em;text-wrap:balance;margin:.85rem 0 .3rem;font-size:1.4rem;font-weight:560;line-height:1.1}.card:hover h3{text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration:underline 1.5px}.card .meta{color:var(--ink-2);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.2rem .7rem;font-size:.9rem;display:flex}.card .meta span+span:before{content:"·";margin-right:.7rem}.card.big{grid-column:span 2}.card.big .ph{aspect-ratio:16/9}@media (width<=620px){.card.big{grid-column:auto}.card.big .ph{aspect-ratio:4/3}}.series-band{background:var(--paper-2)}.series-list{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(270px,1fr));gap:1.2rem;display:grid}.series-item{background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--radius);border:1px solid var(--line);grid-template-rows:auto 1fr;text-decoration:none;display:grid;overflow:hidden}.series-item .strip{aspect-ratio:3/1.15;background:var(--line);grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:2px;display:grid}.series-item .strip img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%}.series-item .body{padding:1.1rem 1.2rem 1.3rem}.series-item h3{font-family:var(--serif);margin:0 0 .4rem;font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:560;line-height:1.15}.series-item p{color:var(--muted);margin:0;font-size:.9rem}.quote-band{background:var(--signal);color:#fff;padding:clamp(3rem,7vw,6rem) 0}.quote-band blockquote{font-family:var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.015em;text-wrap:balance;max-width:26ch;margin:0;font-size:clamp(1.6rem,3.6vw,2.9rem);font-weight:420;line-height:1.15}.quote-band .who{letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:.85;margin-top:1.4rem;font-size:.9rem}.quote-band .two{grid-template-columns:1.3fr 1fr;align-items:center;gap:3rem;display:grid}.quote-band .two img{border-radius:var(--radius);transform:rotate(1.5deg);box-shadow:0 20px 50px #00000040}@media (width<=860px){.quote-band .two{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.trip-hero{color:#fff;background:var(--night);align-items:end;min-height:min(72vh,720px);display:grid;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.trip-hero>img{object-fit:cover;opacity:.82;width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}.trip-hero:after{content:"";background:linear-gradient(#0a080626 0%,#0a080600 35%,#0a0806c7 100%);position:absolute;inset:0}.trip-hero .wrap{z-index:1;padding:0 0 clamp(2rem,5vw,4rem);position:relative}.trip-hero .display{max-width:14ch;font-size:clamp(2.8rem,8vw,7.2rem)}.trip-hero .crumbs{opacity:.9;margin-bottom:1.2rem;font-size:.85rem}.trip-hero .crumbs a{border-bottom:1px solid #ffffff80;text-decoration:none}.facts{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem;margin-top:1.6rem;display:flex}.facts span{backdrop-filter:blur(6px);background:#ffffff24;border:1px solid #ffffff38;border-radius:999px;padding:.35rem .8rem;font-size:.86rem;font-weight:550}.trip-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.1fr;align-items:start;gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,5rem);padding:clamp(3rem,6vw,5rem) 0;display:grid}.trip-intro .lede{max-width:none;font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--ink);font-size:clamp(1.25rem,2.2vw,1.65rem);font-weight:380;line-height:1.35}.trip-intro .mini-map{background:var(--night-2);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:1rem}@media (width<=860px){.trip-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.chapters{counter-reset:ch;border-top:1px solid var(--line);gap:0;display:grid}.chapter-row{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);color:inherit;grid-template-columns:64px 1fr 220px;align-items:center;gap:1.4rem;padding:1.1rem 0;text-decoration:none;display:grid}.chapter-row .num{font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--signal);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;font-size:1.9rem;font-weight:400}.chapter-row h3{font-family:var(--serif);margin:0 0 .25rem;font-size:clamp(1.2rem,2vw,1.55rem);font-weight:540;line-height:1.15}.chapter-row p{color:var(--muted);-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;margin:0;font-size:.92rem;display:-webkit-box;overflow:hidden}.chapter-row .thumbs{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:3px;display:grid}.chapter-row .thumbs img{aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;border-radius:2px;width:100%}.chapter-row:hover h3{color:var(--signal)}@media (width<=760px){.chapter-row{grid-template-columns:44px 1fr}.chapter-row .thumbs{grid-column:2}.chapter-row .num{align-self:start;font-size:1.4rem}}.sheet-section{background:var(--night);color:#efe6d8;padding:clamp(3rem,6vw,5rem) 0}.sheet{columns:4 220px;column-gap:8px}.sheet a{break-inside:avoid;background:#2a231d;border-radius:2px;margin:0 0 8px;display:block;overflow:hidden}.sheet img{width:100%;transition:opacity .2s,transform .5s}.sheet a:hover img{opacity:.88;transform:scale(1.02)}.pager{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:1rem;padding:2.5rem 0 4rem;display:grid}.pager a{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);background:var(--card);padding:1.2rem 1.3rem;text-decoration:none;display:block}.pager a:hover{border-color:var(--signal)}.pager small{letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:.3rem;font-size:.74rem;display:block}.pager b{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.2rem;font-weight:560;line-height:1.2}.pager .next{text-align:right;grid-column:2}@media (width<=620px){.pager{grid-template-columns:1fr}.pager .next{grid-column:1}}.chapter-head{padding:clamp(1.6rem,5vw,3.6rem) 0 clamp(1rem,2.5vw,2rem)}.chapter-head .crumbs{color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:1.4rem;font-size:.88rem}.chapter-head .crumbs a{color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);text-decoration:none}.chapter-head .display{font-size:clamp(2.3rem,6vw,4.6rem)}.chapter-head .meta{color:var(--muted);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem 1.2rem;margin-top:1.2rem;font-size:.92rem;display:flex}.progress{background:var(--signal);z-index:60;width:0;height:3px;position:fixed;top:0;left:0}.story{padding-bottom:2rem}.story p{width:var(--read);color:#2a241f;white-space:pre-line;margin:0 auto 1.1em;font-size:1.08rem;line-height:1.75}.story>p:first-child:first-letter{font-family:var(--serif);float:left;color:var(--signal);padding:.08em .1em 0 0;font-size:4.2em;font-weight:500;line-height:.82}.story figure{margin:2.2rem auto}.story figure a{cursor:zoom-in;display:block}.story figure img{background:var(--paper-2);border-radius:2px;width:100%}.story figure.land{width:min(1100px,100vw - 2.5rem)}.story figure.port{width:min(560px,100vw - 2.5rem)}.story figure.small{width:min(480px,100vw - 2.5rem)}.story figcaption{width:var(--read);color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.98rem;font-style:italic;font-family:var(--serif);margin:.7rem auto 0}.story figure.land figcaption,.story figure.port figcaption,.story figure.small figcaption{width:auto}.story .pair{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;align-items:start;gap:10px;width:min(1100px,100vw - 2.5rem);margin:2.2rem auto;display:grid}.story .pair figure{width:auto;margin:0}.story .pair figcaption{width:auto}.story .grid3{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:10px;width:min(1100px,100vw - 2.5rem);margin:2.2rem auto;display:grid}.story .grid3 figure{width:auto;margin:0}.story .grid3 img{aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover}.story .grid3 figcaption{width:auto;font-size:.8rem}@media (width<=620px){.story .pair{grid-template-columns:1fr}.story .grid3{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}.video{aspect-ratio:16/9;border-radius:var(--radius);background:#000;width:min(900px,100vw - 2.5rem);margin:2.4rem auto;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.video button{cursor:pointer;color:#fff;background:#000;border:0;width:100%;height:100%;padding:0;position:absolute;inset:0}.video button img{object-fit:cover;opacity:.75;width:100%;height:100%}.video button span{background:var(--signal);border-radius:999px;padding:.8rem 1.3rem;font-weight:650;position:absolute;top:50%;left:50%;transform:translate(-50%,-50%)}.video iframe{border:0;width:100%;height:100%}.comments{width:var(--read);border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:3rem auto 0;padding-top:2rem}.comments h2{font-family:var(--serif);margin:0 0 1.2rem;font-size:1.6rem;font-weight:540}.comment{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);margin-bottom:.8rem;padding:1rem 1.2rem}.comment header{justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;margin-bottom:.35rem;font-size:.88rem;display:flex}.comment header b{font-weight:650}.comment header time{color:var(--muted)}.comment p{white-space:pre-line;margin:0;font-size:.97rem}.chapter-strip{background:var(--paper-2);margin-top:3rem;padding:2.5rem 0}.chapter-strip h2{letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 1rem;font-size:.74rem;font-weight:650}.strip-scroll{scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;gap:.8rem;padding-bottom:.6rem;display:flex;overflow-x:auto}.strip-scroll a{scroll-snap-align:start;flex:0 0 190px;font-size:.88rem;line-height:1.25;text-decoration:none}.strip-scroll a img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;background:var(--paper);border-radius:2px;width:100%;margin-bottom:.45rem}.strip-scroll a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--signal);font-weight:650}.strip-scroll a[aria-current=page] img{outline:3px solid var(--signal)}.strip-scroll a span{color:var(--muted);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;margin-right:.3rem}.page-head{padding:clamp(3rem,7vw,5.5rem) 0 2rem}.page-head .display{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,8vw,6.4rem)}.page-head .lede{margin-top:1.2rem}.filters{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.45rem;margin:0 0 2rem;display:flex}.filters button{border:1.5px solid var(--line);cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink);background:0 0;border-radius:999px;padding:.45rem .95rem;font-size:.9rem;font-weight:600}.filters button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink)}.filters button:hover{border-color:var(--ink)}.prose{width:var(--read);margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:4rem}.prose p{white-space:pre-line;margin:0 0 1.1em;font-size:1.08rem;line-height:1.75}.prose h2{font-family:var(--serif);margin:2.5rem 0 1rem;font-size:2rem;font-weight:560}.prose figure{margin:2rem 0}.prose figure img{border-radius:2px}.guide-cards{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(260px,1fr));gap:1.3rem;display:grid}.wall-trip{border-top:1px solid #ffffff1a;padding:2.5rem 0}.wall-trip h2{font-family:var(--serif);margin:0;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.2rem);font-weight:540}.wall-trip h2 a{text-decoration:none}.wall-trip h2 a:hover{color:var(--signal-2)}.wall-trip .hd{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:1rem;margin-bottom:1rem;display:flex}.wall-trip .hd span{color:#a99c8c;font-size:.9rem}.wall-row{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,1fr);gap:6px;display:grid}.wall-row a{aspect-ratio:1;background:#2a231d;display:block;overflow:hidden}.wall-row img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .5s}.wall-row a:hover img{transform:scale(1.06)}@media (width<=760px){.wall-row{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}}.lb{z-index:100;color:#fff;touch-action:pan-y;background:#0c0a08f5;display:none;position:fixed;inset:0}.lb.open{grid-template-rows:auto 1fr auto;display:grid}.lb-top{color:#cfc4b5;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:.8rem 1rem;font-size:.9rem;display:flex}.lb-stage{place-items:center;min-height:0;padding:0 3.5rem;display:grid;position:relative}.lb-stage img{object-fit:contain;max-width:100%;max-height:calc(100vh - 140px);box-shadow:0 10px 40px #00000080}.lb-cap{text-align:center;font-family:var(--serif);color:#e5dacb;min-height:3rem;padding:.8rem 1.2rem 1.2rem;font-style:italic}.lb button{color:#fff;cursor:pointer;background:#ffffff14;border:1px solid #fff3;border-radius:999px}.lb .lb-close{padding:.45rem 1rem;font-weight:600}.lb .lb-prev,.lb .lb-next{place-items:center;width:48px;height:48px;font-size:1.4rem;display:grid;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}.lb .lb-prev{left:.6rem}.lb .lb-next{right:.6rem}@media (width<=620px){.lb-stage{padding:0 .4rem}.lb .lb-prev,.lb .lb-next{top:auto;bottom:-3.4rem;transform:none}}body.lb-lock{overflow:hidden}.notfound{text-align:center;place-items:center;min-height:60vh;padding:4rem 0;display:grid}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*,:before,:after{scroll-behavior:auto!important;transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}.noimg{text-align:center;width:100%;height:100%;font-family:var(--serif);color:var(--paper);background:linear-gradient(135deg, var(--sea), #1f4a4d);place-items:center;padding:1rem;font-size:1.5rem;line-height:1.1;display:grid}.strip-scroll .noimg{aspect-ratio:4/3;border-radius:2px;height:auto;margin-bottom:.45rem;font-size:2rem}.chapter-row .thumbs:empty{display:none}@media (width<=760px){.trip-hero{min-height:58vh}.hero-title{padding-top:1.8rem}.hero-grid .g5{display:none}.hero-grid .g3{grid-column:1/4}.hero-grid .g4{grid-area:5/4/6/7}}
